This post may contain affiliate links. Please read our disclosure policy.
As the world awaits the NIGO x Nike collaboration, here’s a look at the 20-year partnership between “The General” and the Three Stripes.
NIGO and Nike are decades in the making.
Legend has it the Japanese creative pitched the Swoosh a crazy idea at the turn of the 21st century: What if the Nike Air Force 1 was built with patent leather and came in bold color combinations?
After a deal couldn’t be worked out, he allegedly set out to bring his vision to life through A BATHING APE, the streetwear label he co-founded in 1993. The project lived under the “Foot Soldier” banner and was unveiled in the November 2001 issue of Popeye Magazine.
The Foot Soldier store was unlike any other footwear store around. Products were displayed on conveyor belts and illuminated similar to art in a gallery.
The standout style was the BAPE STA, a silhouette clearly rooted in Bruce Kilgore’s Air Force 1 from the 1980s. Pairs from Foot Soldier, however, featured eye-catching color palettes — 40 to be exact.
“It is also good to be troubled with the choice of colors,” NIGO told Popeye.
The BAPE frontman “troubled” consumers on his own for a couple of years, but in 2003 he joined forces with adidas. Longtime rival to Nike, the German sportswear brand gave NIGO a global retail platform and access to one of the most storied archives in the industry.
The duo released hundreds of items throughout the next 20 years, forecasting trends, paying homage, and building a legacy in the process.
NIGO’s recent work — the VICTOR VICTOR Air Force 1 Low and multi-colored Air Force 3 — concludes his time with the Three Stripes.
The “NIGO x Nike” story will surely deliver a handful of noteworthy chapters, but until the first one gets published, check out NIGO’s history with adidas below.
BAPE x adidas Super Ape Star
Aug. 2003
With his own footwear line still relatively new, NIGO teamed up with adidas for a multi-pair collaboration. Citing Run-D.M.C. as an early influence, the Japanese designer reinterpreted the iconic Superstar for his first project.
Officially the BAPE Super Ape Star, the silhouette arrived with golden Ape Head branding and in special packaging. BAPE’s signature ABC Camo covered one of the quartet’s pairs, marrying street and sportswear like few before it. Accompanying styles kept things tamer, but they included additional sets of laces that allowed for some flair.
This was effectively adidas Originals’ first-ever collaboration.
BAPE x adidas Super Ape Skate
Sept. 2003
The “shell-toes” were followed by three takes on the Super Ape Skate, a mid-top with semblance to the Pro Model. BAPE’s second effort with adidas was more exclusive than its predecessor, as each style was limited to just 500 pairs.
The trio featured a mix of premium suede and leather done in understated olive green and black colors. Faux snakeskin appeared on one pair, elevating the silhouette.
A mythical iridescent finish also joined the mix but was limited to only 100 pairs gifted to select staff members of both brands.
BAPE x adidas Superstar 80s “B-Sides”
April 2011
NIGO had to wait eight years until he got another chance to reimagine a 3 -Stripes-branded sneaker. (During that wait period, NIGO founded Human Made and sold off most of his stake in BAPE to I.T. Group, a Hong Kong-based fashion conglomerate).
The streetwear stalwart landed on yet another Superstar 80s. The “B-Sides” pair kept things subtle: a gray suede upper worked with navy leather accents across the sidewalls and spine. An Ape Head logo was stamped onto the lateral heel and traditional “Superstar” text at the mid-foot was replaced with a French phrase (“Trefle En Chevrons Et Bape”) shouting out both brands.
BAPE x UNDEFEATED x adidas Originals
April 2013
NIGO joined forces with California’s UNDEFEATED to reimagine three adidas silhouettes as part of his last official effort as BAPE’s Creative Director.
The capsule brought black and olive suede to the Campus 80s and Stan Smith, as well as gold co-branding. The patriotic and heavily camouflaged ZX 5000, however, stole the show, quickly gaining “grail” status.
adidas Originals by NIGO
Oct. 2014
NIGO left BAPE for good in May 2013.
On Feb. 25, 2014, adidas Originals announced a long-term partnership with NIGO via Twitter, sharing that a collection would launch in Fall/Winter 2014.
“I’m sort of fulfilling a long-time dream,” said NIGO in conversation with Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi ahead of his debut collection.
As a teenager in Japan, NIGO was enamored by the Three Stripes, remembering Run-D.M.C.’s laceless Superstar fondly. His first project with the German brand naturally revisited some of the footwear and apparel he admired and oftentimes longed for in his youth.
The multi-hyphenate tapped New York City’s Ratking to model the versatile capsule, which included varsity jackets, and tracksuits alongside over a dozen shoe options. Some standouts from the collection were the quartet of Superstars and Marathon TR Mid trio.
Every piece of footwear had “25” branding on the tongue label, a nod to the Japanese pronunciation of the numbers separately (“?” (“ni”), “?” (“go”)).
adidas Originals by NIGO
Feb. 2015
It didn’t take long for NIGO and the Three Stripes to deliver their second drop. Again with Ratking’s help, the collaborators unveiled another expansive mix of items, with a focus on the Campus 80s.
Remaining Spring/Summer 2015 offerings included a Superstar covered in an old school “Grand Slam” print; and different takes on the City Marathon PT, Shooting Star Hi, and Stan Smith CF.
Ahead of Fall/Winter 2015, adidas Originals revealed NIGO’s cheeky “Bearfoot” Superstar 80s. Inspired by the crowned bear mascot for their partnership, the sneaker featured special tongue tab branding and a capsule-specific lace dubrae.
The reworked “shell-toe,” which featured an outline of the bear’s face, inspired the “Bearfoot” nickname.
adidas Originals by NIGO
March 2016
NIGO trusted Stormzy, the British rapper hailing from South London, to be the face of yet another campaign. He modeled more styles of the Superstar 80s and Pro Model “Bearfoot,” as well as an Adilette and Stan Smith covered in similar bear motifs.
A large emphasis was placed on accompanying apparel, with basketball jerseys and matching sweatsuits touching on adidas’ sports legacy.
Human Made x adidas Solar Hu Glide
May 2019
After a hiatus from the sneaker-related spotlight, NIGO returned to the scene with longtime friend and partner, Pharrell Williams. Both men teased their three-way collaboration before announcing official details of their Solar Hu Glide.
The first “Human Made”-branded adidas sneaker was relatively tame. A punchy blue heart landed on the sneaker’s toe box, differing from Human Made’s typical red branding. The pair released as a Japan-exclusive to commemorate the opening of NIGO’s first-ever Human Made store in Kyoto.
Human Made x Human Race x adidas Originals
Oct. 2019
NIGO and Pharrell followed up their commemorative project with a three-pair collection rooted in their friendship, love as a universal unifier, and performance-inspired design.
The capsule saw the Solar Hu Glide, Hu NMD, and Tennis Hu in a two-tone “Footwear White/Scarlet” color scheme that matched some of the products from the Human Made x Girls Don’t Cry collaboration of the time.
Human Made x adidas Stan Smith
Jan. 2020
NIGO’s first solo Human Made x adidas project updated the iconic Stan Smith with heart motifs across the sidewalls. The sneaker kept its signature color palette, but the sole unit opted for an off-white finish that played to Human Made’s vintage sensibilities.
Human Made x adidas Superstar
April 2020
A trio of the iconic “shell-toe” launched at the beginning of spring as part of the Superstar’s 50th anniversary.
While reminiscent of the Super Ape Star, the three-pair collection proudly displayed Human Made-related messaging throughout, leaving the BAPE collaboration as a distant memory.
Human Made x adidas Rivalry Low
Aug. 2020
adidas’ classic Rivalry Low rounded out NIGO’s August offerings in multi-color combinations.
Perhaps more fit for spring and summer than autumn, the Human Made Rivalry collection delivered a flashback to NIGO’s wild BAPE STA makeups from the 2000s.
Shades of sand worked together with Neapolitan-esque pink and brown to create something reminiscent of the legendary BAPE STA “College Dropout” for Kanye West; hits of rich green, bright orange, and bold aqua landed on accompanying pairs, delivering Human Made’s most elaborately color-blocked adidas sneaker.
Other pairs included the Campus 80s and Stan Smith in straightforward makeups.
Human Made x Tokio Solar
Sept. 2020
Up until now, NIGO’s Human Made x adidas work had almost exclusively reimagined classics from the Three Stripes lineup without tampering with their performance elements. His third-to-last drop of the year, however, morphed the DNA of the adidas Stan Smith and Tokio, two made-for-sports options from the 1960s.
NIGO’s vision for the former model brought heart-shaped perforations to the profiles and three Velcro-assisted lockdown straps down the tongue. The Tokio Solar modified a long-forgotten track spike upper with a number of leather and suede panels for reinforcement. Plastic rails just above the midsole brought containment to the update, which also enjoyed full-length BOOST cushioning, a Torsion bar, and a Continental rubber outsole.
The pair arrived in two straightforward styles. A plethora of apparel items – including a three-pack of tees, running shorts, and a crewneck sweater – also dropped.
Human Made x adidas Marathon Free Hiker
Nov. 2020
NIGO’s penultimate project of 2020 doubled down on heritage, digging up two unheralded silhouettes from the adidas archives: the Marathon Trainer and Nizza Hi. Through the Human Made partnership, each design was reenergized for savvy and casual fans alike.
The canvas-covered style remained mostly faithful to its mid-1970s build but featured a zipper on the medial heel. By comparison, the Marathon Free Hiker prepped a 40-something-year-old running upper for the great outdoors with an update in materials, collar height, and BOOST-assisted tooling.
As with prior capsules, a number of apparel items accompanied the footwear – including an inflatable vest, denim track pants, and a long-sleeve collared shirt.
Human Made x Human Race x adidas Originals “Friendship Pack”
Dec. 2020
Who better to help NIGO close out a busy year than Pharrell?
Both adidas teammates linked up during the holiday season for the “Friendship Pack,” a four-shoe collection that brought disparate, vibrant colors to the Tokio Solar and Chancletas Hu, a reworked pair of slides from Pharrell’s Human Race line.
The quartet captured the style mavericks’ eccentric tastes while further solidifying the duo’s presence in fashion.
Human Made x adidas Forum Low
April 2021
NIGO took a breather after a jam-packed 2020. Akin to his last few projects with the Three Stripes, he brought bouncy BOOST foam to his Spring/Summer 2021 offerings.
The collection included three different takes of both the adidas Country and Forum Low, modernizing classic performance models for a new era.
All six styles featured familiar color palettes and Human Made branding, which was also found on the expansive apparel capsule that dropped alongside the sneakers. Sweatbands and tracksuits helped build the collection’s universe all while cementing Human Made as one of adidas’ most creative collaborators.
Human Made x adidas Slip-On Pure
May 2021
Leave it to NIGO to make kung fu shoes cool. We might never truly know what led the Human Made frontman to reimagine footwear for martial arts, but what’s certain is how beloved the Slip-On Pure became.
Reminiscent of the PureBOOST that dominated wishlists throughout the mid-2010s, NIGO’s laceless model placed a breathable, minimally-structured mesh upper atop a generous slab of BOOST foam for unrivaled comfort.
An ornate outsole further connected the project to its Eastern influence while providing reliable traction. Tonal uppers offered versatility just as embroidered “Human Made” text on the forefoot gave wearers a cool co-sign.
Human Made x adidas Tokio Solar “Olympics”
July 2021
The adidas Tokio Solar returned as part of Human Made’s efforts in time for the Tokyo Olympics. Like NIGO’s inaugural offerings, the third duo of the modernized track spike arrived in both a “Footwear White” style with accented 3-Stripes branding and a mostly-tonal makeup.
Each pair featured “2020” text on the inner heel tab, a detail that confirmed plans of the duo originally intended to release during the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo (the event was postponed due to a global pandemic).
The occasion would mark the 56th anniversary of the 1964 Tokyo Games during which the adidas Tokio debuted. NIGO, therefore, borrowed vintage pairs’ color schemes for his third Tokio Solar drop, paying homage to Japan and celebrating the Three Stripes’ sports legacy along the way.
Human Made x adidas EQT Racing 91
July 2021
Days after their delayed commemorative capsule, Human Made and adidas dropped the EQT Racing.
Near-identical to an in-line option that launched in 2016, NIGO’s vision proudly boasted the “Equipment” Series’ signature “Sub Green” color across 3-Stripes branding and heel panels.
To ensure folks didn’t confuse the pair for a simple retro of the unconventional performance model from 1991, NIGO stamped his label’s “Gears for Futuristic Teenagers” messaging and heart emblem onto the sneaker. BOOST foam and Continental rubber completed the update.
Human Made x adidas Questar
Aug. 2021
NIGO seems to have had unfinished business with the reworked adidas EQT Racing 91 as he revisited the model weeks after his first proposal.
The UltraBOOST kin was accompanied by an updated take on the adidas Questar, a revolutionary trainer that debuted in 1986.
Both models arrived in two color schemes with the brighter of the duo harkening back to the ZX 8000’s “Light Aqua” look.
Human Made x adidas ADIMATIC
July 2022
After almost a year of radio silence, the Human Made x adidas partnership announced and launched a trio of the ADIMATIC.
Having debuted in 1996, the silhouette had been retroed earlier in the year, allowing the Three Stripes to tap into the chunky, skate-approved aesthetic that was in vogue.
Unlike previous projects, NIGO kept things intact with the adidas ADIMATIC’s DNA, allowing for the sneaker’s exaggerated proportions and zigzag details to enjoy the spotlight. Human Made’s heart logo was embroidered onto the sneakers’ spines, while muted, fall-friendly cream, gray, and olive tones claimed sizable real estate across the trio.
The old-school collection marked the final project between NIGO and adidas. According to insiders, the two chose not to renew their partnership in the lead-up to 2023. Rumors that the Japanese designer was jumping ship to Nike began to circulate at the top of the year.
NIGO finally gave the speculation some credence after being spotted in the Nike Go FlyEase, his first Swoosh sighting in 20 years.
What’s been teased so far from the NIGO x Nike partnership promises a masterful mix of heritage, narrative, and high-quality craftwork that’s arguably been missing in sneakers, making the linkup that much more exciting to consumers (and daunting to competitors).
Keep it locked to Nice Kicks on Instagram and the sneaker release dates page to stay on top of the latest news and drops.
